September Notes from Istanbul

Here in Fatih, on the mail boulevard, we were heading to dinner with our hostess (food photos will be posted separately). Blaring horns, scooters, pedestrians crossing any time – welcome to an average evening in the big city.

Fatih

Leaving our residence to have dinner on the main road, we realized we are on a hilltop.

Hilltop Fatih, Istanbul

On our second day, we used our map to walk all the way to the Grand Bazaar. We passed this aqueduct on the way.

Aquaduct in Istanbul

Well, the Grand Bazaar was rather disappointing. To me this was just another tourist trap. Yes, the building and the feel itself is nice, but I got tired of the haggling vendors in the end. I was looking for an everyday bag (one, which doesn’t mind if a banana gets squashed in it), but vendors were trying to sell me expensive leather bags. There was just too much hustle for my taste. I’m glad I went there, but once is enough. This is like going to the Oktoberfest in Munich. I don’t need that a second time either.

On the way out, I spotted a beautiful opal bracelet. The price was out of my range (with or without haggling). In the end, I found some beautiful opal earrings and an emerald ring. I was so tired of the hustle and bustle by then, so I made a somewhat ridiculously low counter-offer and it was accepted. Lack of coffee in the morning, tired feet, and having to give constant polite refusals, can do that to me.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

By all means, go to the Grand Bazaar. I just wanted to let you know what to expect.

September Notes from Istanbul

Before leaving for our flight to Istanbul, I read the weather forecast, predicting moderate to heavy rains from Monday afternoon until Thursday afternoon. This coincided exactly with our time spent there. But we had a great time there anyway, thanks to our wonderful hostess.

On the way from the airport to our place in the historic district of Fatih, we passed parts of the old city wall. Taking a taxi in Istanbul requires a bit of stamina though. So does crossing the street.

Old city wall Istanbul

This was the first view from our hostess’ balcony after our arrival. As hazy as it was, it was beautiful.

Istanbul rooftops

Daily life and laundry day.

Laundry day

Fatih Camii Faith Mosque was only a five-minute walk from our residence.

Mosque nearby

Fatih Camii Faith Mosque

The park in front of the mosque looked very inviting on this hazy day, but we were ready to explore some more. That first afternoon and evening, we did everything on foot.

Mosque Park

We also bought an Istanbulkart, which I can highly recommend. This Istanbulkart RFID transit pass is for the Metro, bus, tram, ferry & funicular travel in Istanbul. We spent 50 TL (about euro 17) on this card and used it for two days. Very easy to buy from the machine, and each time you scan your transportation charge, it also shows you the remainder of your balance. We mostly used the Metro and the tram. We even took the ferry over to Kadiköy on the Asian side, and by the time we left the city, we still had more than half of the TL left on the card.

Notes from Istanbul

My best Japanese friend, Nobuko, is traveling around the world and sending regular updates.  Her updates might help fellow travelers navigate and learn from her experience. This time, she reports from her month spent in Turkey.

Turkey really grew on me… I went there with no solid knowledge about what to expect. I was only going to visit Istanbul and Cappadocia. But it did not take long at all for me to really start liking the place and people.

I left Mumbai and landed in Istanbul on 01 Nov 2012. Since I started my transit from Goa, I had been up for a long time when I landed. The first impression of Istanbul as I took a tram into the city was very European. I made my way to the house of my gracious hostess, Burcin, and on the way could not help to be amazed how many mosques there were – you see minarets sticking into the sky everywhere!

As a typical tourist new in town, I tackled the major sites including the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque, and the Topkapi Palace (all within a five-minute walk from each other) on my first day. Despite being in “low season”, the Hagia Sofia had a long queue but I managed to find an English tour group and skipped the long line – yes that’s right, you can skip the line if you are with an official guide. The inside was just amazing. I wish I had a better camera.

The Topkapi Palace covers a large area. The harem quarters takes up a considerable amount of space as the Sultan had to provide room and board for women whom he needed in order to feel like a man.

The Blue Mosque is beautiful inside. But there were so many tourists, too! It is still used as a place of worship. And I wonder how worshipers feel about tons of tourists outnumbering them and taking pictures while they pray. I liked sitting inside the mosques. High ceilings give a grand feeling to the space, but the quietness and the fully carpeted floor provide comfort – respite from the commotions outside on the streets.

The New Mosque (which is only 400 years old) was also very nice. It had more worshipers than tourists when I went there. For some reason, Turkish women liked snapping photos with me there.

On my second day, I got off the tram at Karakoy and walked over the Galata bridge towards the New Mosque. I found the unassuming Rusten Pasha Mosque (a.k.a. Rüstem Pasha Mosque) in the middle of a busy bazaar street, and then I followed the uphill streets to Suleymaniye Mosque which offers a great view.

I do not like crowds, in general. I can manage to enjoy being in them only when I am traveling, walking in a protest, or going to concerts. But the crowd at the spice market near the new mosque was too much! I got there by chance and before I knew it, I was sucked into the flow of people headed into the market. Turning around or joining the flow leaving the market took such an effort that I gave up and let the crowd push me along until I reached the end of it. So I did not really see anything there.

My hostess Burcin took me out to the Taksim area at night on a few occasions. Istanbul is also known as the City of Seven Hills – and because of the hills and non-grid layout of the streets, you get to enjoy getting lost and taking many great photos with cats in them, which makes you feel like you are the best artsy photographer in the world. Taksim also had lots of rooftop bars and comes to life at night more than during the day and I got to enjoy them thanks to Burcin! She also took me to Ortakoy for a sunset boat ride and apple flavored Nergile (a.k.a. hooka / Shisha). It reminded me of Fells Point in Baltimore a bit. I had a baked potato filled with all kinds of goodness. It was huge, like a size of 2+ tennis ball.

On the 3rd day, I took the tram to Yusufpasa stop and walked up to the Fatih Mosque. But I could not find the entrance. I just walked around and ended up at a grand bazaar which sold everything from used books to belts to food to whatever one may be looking for.

Istanbul at sunrise

Istanbul  is a modern and clean city with killer views – I find it the most beautiful city in the world out of all the places I have been to.

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