For a real taste of German cuisine, coupled with an authentic flair of a German Wirtshaus (pub), you should try the guesthouse Zum Schwanen in Oberursel.

Not only was it a romantic night to be out – because of the first real heavy snowfall – but Zum Schwanen is also located in an idyllic area, close to the town’s church and surrounded by other half-timbered houses.

Oberursel with St. Ursula Church (Wall on the left belongs to Zum Schwanen)

Just stepping into the place reminded me of my American/French brother-in-law’s comment two Christmases ago, when we took him there for my birthday: Gosh, this smells like Germany! We explored this point further as I find statements as such rather intriguing. Did the Sauerkraut marinade creep into the table patinas’ veins? Was the smell of beer hanging in the air? Was it the warm German bodies exhaling German food and drink through their pores? What does it mean to smell German, I wonder. Maybe I should not ask…

For the ones who remember Germany from the 60s and 70s: Please keep in mind shower habits have much improved since then. Entering a department store during a German summer no longer requires dwarfed nostrils.

Zum Schwanen

Looking out through the big lattice-windows onto the neighboring snow-covered roofs, while sitting in the warmth of a nice place and looking forward to dinner, put this eating-out experience rather close to the category of: unforgettable.

Leg of goose, potato dumplings, with red cabbage

Besides enjoying an excellent dinner, we also had very attentive service.

Last night, the restaurant earned five ***** from me.