Franconian Switzerland in the Heart of Germany

Franconian Switzerland, located in northern Bavaria, can be reached by car from Frankfurt in three hours. In the summer, I imagine, it is overrun by tour buses, but we went there in late November, which made it perfect for us: few people, quiet, and no lines anywhere.

When you first enter the small town of Gössweinstein, you see its castle on top of the hill. The same castle, Burg Gößweinstein, is said to have possibly been the inspiration for Richard Wagner’s opera, Parsifal.

Gößweinstein Castle

We were there in late November, and it was quite foggy at times.

November fog in Franconian Switzerland

But nature also displayed its colors.

November Nature

This shepherd and his herd were a rare sight to see.

A shepherd and his flock

We also visited the town of Pottenstein.

Pottenstein

We spent most of our first day in Pottenstein, and the first sight next to the church was the Scharfrichter Museum (Executioner Museum). I was tempted to pay it a visit, but my husband didn’t want to. Instead, he dragged me to an antique shop across the road.

In Pottenstein, we also had lunch at a place we will never forget. I will not mention its name, though.

The restaurant floor was dirty, and the waitress immediately told us of her chore of sharpening the knives in the kitchen. She had just previously bought a Wetzstein (whetstone) on sale, and it was not working properly for her… She was going on and on about these dull knives, and how the owner could not dispose of them, because they had belonged to his dead wife. There were moments I thought either we are on Candid Camera, or next time the waitress comes out of the kitchen, she will appear as the witch from Hansel & Gretel.

Of course, I imagined another scenery too, from having read so many mystery and crime novels.

She was also the cook with black dirt under each fingernail. She talked to herself, or the knives, loudly in the kitchen. I really had doubts what kind of food we would get, but I did not mention this to my husband (he told me afterwards he had thought the same).

We promised each other not to leave one sitting alone at the table, not even for going to the loo. We ate very quickly, and agreed, that if that ever happened again, we would pay for our meal WITHOUT touching any of it. And we would leave immediately.

We finished our meal (decent actually, and we detected no other flavor…), and paid right away. The waitress kept talking and talking on our way out, and my husband just closed the door behind us in her mid-sentence.

We both took a deep breath when we stepped outside. This lunch-scare is starting to become a family joke, such as when the question comes up, where we should go for dinner next… 🙂

Franconian Potato Dumplings

For the first time ever in my life, I made potato dumplings from scratch, thanks to my husband’s prompting. Before that, I always got the ready-to-use dough from the local supermarket.

Through my search for a good recipe for potato dumplings, I finally found the answer to an old question. Over the years, I had always wondered about the difference in Fränkische Kartoffelklösse (Franconian potato dumplings) and Fränkische Seidenklösse (Franconian silk dumplings).

I learned  regular Franconian dumplings are made 2/3 from raw potatoes, with the remaining 1/3 made from cooked potatoes. I decided to make the Seidenklösse as the dough is made solely from cooked potatoes and looked less time-consuming to me.

Fortunately for the family, the dumplings came out very well. I just hope I can go back to use the store-bought kind to keep my life simple because this happy housewife activity took more than 60 minutes.

Recipe:

2 kg potatoes (the mealy kind)

500 gr potato starch

3 eggs

salt and nutmeg – 1 tblsp each

toasted bread, cut into cubes

Instructions:

Cook potatoes in salt water, peel, press through the ricer. While the potato mash is still warm, add starch, eggs, salt and nutmeg. Knead thoroughly and shape into tennis size dumplings ( add bread cubes into the center).

Drop dumplings into boiling salt water. When they come floating to the top, let simmer for another five minutes.

This recipe makes 20 dumplings. Serve with pork roast and brown gravy.

Potato dumplings (and ricer in foreground)

Feisty Franconia

Franconia is not far away –only two hours east of Frankfurt by car– and planning a visit there neither seems as exotic as Japan nor as far off the beaten path as the Faroe Islands do. But Franconia has a lot to offer.

But there is also something else about it: It is my birthplace. I was born in a small village called Hambach in Lower Franconia.

This song’s introductory line sums it up:

Im schönen Frankenland wo meine Wiege stand. (In beautiful Franconia where my cradle stood)

They sing this at every Weinfest, Bierfest, Pfarrfest, Feuerwehrfest, Kindergartenfest, Hoffest, Junggesellenfest, etc. They are a festive folk.

I left Franconia close to thirty years ago and on my occasional trips back, I realize how different they are from the rest of the Germans. When in casual conversation, there always seems to be a demanding undertone in their speech. When a happy Franconian speaks, his intonation might resemble a melody. The Franconians, being part of Northern Bavaria, are often referred to as the Beute-Bayern (the Bavarian predators made the Franconians their prey).

This area is full of traditions worth telling about.

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