Eating Well in Franconia

Whenever we travel to Franconia, we overeat. I usually remember to order the Seniorenteller (smaller size), but we also nibble on this and that, things my siblings push towards us, and what we miss around here in Hessen.

The drinking portions are in a different category too. Whenever I order a Weinschorle (half wine, half mineral water), it comes in a 0.5 l glass (pint size). I forget I need to order a small one.

Weinschorle

This is one of my favorites. We can get this in Hessen too, where it is called Obadza. In Franconia, it is called ‘Gerupfter’, served on dark bread or lye. This spread is a mixture of butter, Camembert, onions, and red pepper.

Gerupfter a.k.a. Obatzda

We wanted a small lunch in between running errands. When the proprietor suggested ‘Kraut und Bratwürst’ for a small lunch, we believed him (we fall for it every time!). First came the basket of bread.

Then came the actual lunch – big fat tasty fried sausages. Oh my.

I’m glad we had this photo taken before lunch.

A Night at Zeilitzheim Castle

There are about 25.000 castles and fortresses in Germany. Nobody knows for sure how many there actually are, so the Deutsche Burgenvereiniung (German Castle Association) has decided to do a final count and registration. They expect to have the final results in about ten years’ time.

A week ago, we spent the night in one of these 25.000 castles. Going back to one’s hometown requires accommodation, and over the past few years, we have tried out several places – mostly inns in villages around the northern Franconia area.

This time, we chose Schloss Zeilitzheim (we had spent a night there about 10 years ago). As it was the case back then – we liked the pavilion, the park, and breakfast the best.

We had booked the Kardinalszimmer (sleeps four people) to accommodate all of us.

We enjoyed sitting on the bench looking out over the park.

 

The castle interior is a museum with its artifacts, showcases in the hallway, and authentic furniture.

I can highly recommend this castle hotel to anyone who just wants to get away for a day or two (or more). Buy a bottle of wine from the owner’s Weingut (winery) and sneak off to the pavilion at night. My husband and I sat there under a starry sky, and had a quiet conversation while sipping our wine. Recommended: Bring a flash light or a candle.

If you like really warm rooms, then I’d suggest you go there during the warmer season. This is a true castle, so in early spring, the rooms/radiators do not heat up so quickly. For me, it was perfect though.

Pigtown, Germany

We spent the past weekend in my hometown of Hambach, a village near the city of Schweinfurt in northern Bavaria. We sometimes refer to Schweinfurt as pig town, but its literal translation is pig crossing.

As soon as we get off the Autobahn and drive into the countryside, there are rolling hills, vineyards, and wheat fields.

Franken

Having grown up on a farm, I have a special appreciation for combines (German: Mähdrescher) in August. I do remember the dust and the dry heat (unlike nowadays), and the itchiness from the chaff and straw. August was also the month my dad knew whether his farming work had paid off for the year or not.

Mainberg Castle (Mainberg being another village outside of Pigtown) has been in the news recently. The castle is in bad condition and the owner lacks the funds for a complete restoration. If approved, the public gets to finance this hefty charge.

Mainberg Castle

Mainberg Castle

I like going to Pigtown, but I have stopped calling it going home many years ago. Both the area and I have changed over the thirty-some years.

The German word Heimat translates to hometown, whereas Zuhause is your current home. Meine alte Heimat ist Schweinfurt, mein Zuhause ist Oberursel.

Good Beer Area and the Wireless

We spent the past Easter weekend in the heart of Germany, namely the region Franconia in northern Bavaria.

As usual, we met my siblings over dinner in one of those rural guesthouses, where local cuisine and often home brewed beer is served. When I opened my iPad, this popped up:

Good Beer Area

We had a good laugh on this one – the guesthouse on main street in this small village of Hausen with a population of 636 residents – uses English. Quite modest is its claim of Good Beer Area. They should call it Best Beer Area.

A typical pub interior

 

Brauerei Martin in Hausen

Quoting Frank Zappa:

“You can’t be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.”

 

Vineyards in Beautiful Franconia

Another drive to my hometown area of Lower Franconia had us stop along the way. Not to smell the flowers this time, but to admire the beautiful hills, men at work, and the progress on the Weinlese (grape harvesting).

Weinberg in Franconia

The colors around this time of year are just superb.

A very narrow tractor works its way through the rows of vines.

Winzer Traktor

As we were driving around wine-making country, I’d suppose this tractor is part of the wine-making process too.

Franconia is home to the Bocksbeutel bottle.

For a place to stay overnight, visit this link on which I left a review for Barockschloss Zeilitzheim. By the way, this same castle has just added wine making to its repertoire of goods and services.

We will get to taste the first wine sometime soon (May 2013).

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