Animal Life on Faial

The Azores seem to belong to the animal kingdom, whether it’s wildlife or domesticated ones. There are a few cows on each little strip of land, donkeys and sheep can be heard echoing from the mountain side, dogs and cats sleep on the streets, and the birds, 150 species in all, sing all day long.

Some villagers still walk the country roads and wave as one is driving by. The farmer’s wife’s dryer is the ever present wind and so many house fronts are decorated with colorful laundry drying in the breeze. Horses are being groomed, sleepy dogs stared at us and the pace is very slow, in general. This is just what we needed to unwind.

Lizzards liked the heat from the hot walls.

Lizards like the heat from the hot walls.

Unfenced land - the cattle is only tied to a rope.

Unfenced land - the cattle is only tied to a rope.

Two cockroaches tasted some wine from Pico!

Two cockroaches tasted some wine from Pico!

Cow being taken home on the country road.

A cow being taken home on the country road.

A millipede in the kitchen sink...

A centipede in the kitchen sink...

A farmer tending to his horse.

A farmer tending to his horse.

Tractors and pigeons

Tractors and pigeons.

We enjoyed the country life on Faial.

Highlights on Pico

During our second week on Faial we decided to visit the island of Pico for a day. Based on a recommendation, we called ahead to reserve a taxi for our arrival at Pico port. We called Jão, an English speaking repatriate from Canada.

He picked us up from the ferry and drove us to Gruta das Torres near Criação Velha. This lava cave is a volcanic phenomenon. Having been formed by lava flowing from the eruptions of Cabeço Brava, it now appears as a tunnel. We entered this 500 m long tube with the help of an English speaking guide. Good shoe wear is a must. You will be provided with helmets and flash lights. At the end of the tour, the guide asked us to turn off our lights and then open our eyes. What a feeling to experience nothing but total blackness!!

Getting geared up for the descend into the lava tube.

Getting geared up for the descend into the lava tube.

After one hour, Jão came back to take us to the famous vineyards, small stone-wall enclosures to protect the plants from salt winds and to gain extra heat.

In 2002, UNESCO designated this area just outside of Madalena on the western coast, a World Heritage Site. Jão told us an unofficial count of the length of wall had been conducted and it was concluded that the walls, all built from lava rocks, total 100.000 km in length. The vines on Pico are surrounded by walls which could circumference the world twice and a half!

Looking out towards Faial.

Looking out towards the island of Faial.

Looking back at Pico mountain.

Looking back at Pico mountain.

Pico is most famous for its wine and whales, which includes the vinyards, one wine museum, and tree whale museums.

Capelinhos on Faial

A few years ago, the Capelinhos Interpretation Centre was opened in dedication to the volcano’s eruption in 1957/1958. This brand new center is a state-of-the-art building. Built underground, it has almost no impact on the landscape by blending successfully into its black and gray surroundings.

The centre lies under these heaps of ashes.

The centre lies under these heaps of ashes.

The tours begin with a 12-minute 3-D film titled The Formation of the Earth. After this film you see depictions of volcanic and seismic events around the world, minerals and gem stones, and much more.

The tour ends beneath the tower of the lighthouse. From there you have a great view onto a landscape still covered by ashes!

Another ruin serving as a reminder.

Another ruin serving as a reminder.

A dramatic scenery, but blowing ashes in one's face on such a windy day.

A dramatic scenery, but a strong wind blew ashes in our face...

This eruption also triggered another exodus – this time it concerned the islanders. Thanks largely to John F. Kennedy, the Azorean Refugee Act was introduced in 1958 allowing Azoreans to start a new life in the U.S.A. A copy of this historical emigration document is on view in the Capelinhos Interpretation Centre.

An intense emigration followed, reducing the island’s population substantially, and new Azorean settlements sprang up both in the U.S.A. and Canada.

Strange to think in all those years I spent in the States I had never met one who claimed to have Azorean roots. I had met so many new Americans claiming to be Germans, British, half Swiss and half Irish, one fourth Native American, etc. But never did I meet one emigrant from the Azores.

Painting offerings to Neptune at Horta Marina

Somebody started the rumor that any sailor, departing without painting one’s name on the wall, was to bring down Neptune’s wrath, followed by an unlucky voyage. Some of the more superstitious have been leaving their memento in form of an artwork behind – on the wall or pavement at the Horta marina.

To Steffi and Tim - hope you made if back safely!

Nice outdoor art exhibit!

Nice outdoor art exhibit!

Take a walk through one of the largest outdoor artwork collection on the Azores. Thousands of yachts arrive every year in Horta’s marina and my guess is one third of them leaves a painting in return for Neptune’s blessing.

Interesting Spots on Faial/Part 1

Here are some of the best locations on Faial:

Praia do Almoxarife

Praia do Almoxarife

This is the beach we walked to in a couple of minutes from our rental home in Almoxarife. There is a sandy beach, campsite and a few restaurants on the village square.

Driving into Horta (Pico mountain is obscurred by the clouds)

Driving into Horta (Pico mountain is obscured by the clouds)

Horta was first settled by Flemings in the 15th century. Many of the town buildings, churches and manor houses date from the 17th and 18th century. Over the years, fires, earthquakes, and fierce winter storms have resulted in much rebuilding though.

Coming into Horta by boat

Coming into Horta by boat

We were returning from our whale and dolphin watching boat trip that day.

A beautiful natural rock swimming pool at Varadouro

A beautiful natural rock swimming pool at Varadouro

Varadouro, a small town on the western coast, has turned its rough and rocky beach into a smooth and natural swimming pool by laying cement ways to guide you safely through the lava boulders. But the waters are still rough there – you need strong arms to swim against those waves. Great place though for relaxing, sunbathing, and eating at one of the restaurants.

Coming from Horta, driving into the valley of Almoxarife

Coming from Horta, driving into the valley of Almoxarife

Hedgerows, green fields (corn and meadows), warm winds, ever-moving clouds, and lots of animals. Some of them end up as road pizza made up mostly by dead birds, which are not used to cars on the roads. Birds sit on the road and play and we often had to break slightly to give them time to fly away. The same with dogs, rabbits, and cats – they like to lie on the road and take it easy.

Steep cliffs, clean water

Steep cliffs, clean water

Black cliffs or big rocks line much of Faial’s shores with sandy beaches only in a few spots.

Horta marina with a better view on Pico.

Horta marina with a better view on Pico.

The islands of Faial and Pico are only 6 km (4 miles) apart. There is a good ferry service (€ 3,50 per adult) between Faial and Pico, which takes about 30 minutes.

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